Day 8 and 9: Santa Cruz, Galapagos

Left Isabela by boat early in the morning.

Arrived at Santa Cruz - land of the giant tortoises.

The highlands of Santa Cruz are home to the largest tortoise in the world.  Before hiking into the highlands, we first kayaked around the bay.  Santa Cruz island is the common starting point of the boat tours of the Galapagos so it has many restaurants and shops.  

After kayaking, we changed into our hiking gear and hiked into the highlands to see the giant tortoises in the wild.  I'm not sure my pictures adequately convey how huge and amazing these creatures are.

We also visited the Charles Darwin Research Center which is home to Lonesome George, the last living tortoise of his species.  Attempts to breed him with similar tortoises have so far failed but the scientists have not yet given up hope.

Lonesome George:

The center is also home to Diego, the second most famous tortoise in the world.  In Galapagos, his species had been reduced to 10 females. Until he was discovered in the San Diego Zoo, it was thought his species would become extinct.  However, Diego and the 10 females have successfully re-populated the species and there are now 2000 tortoises of his kind living in the wild.

Diego:

I'm flying home tomorrow so this is my last post.  It has been a fantastic trip. Everyone should visit the Galapagos!!

Day 7: Isabela

Today was not as action packed as the other days.

We started off with a boat ride out to Tortuga Island.  Tortuga Island is another one of these lava cone islands.  Half of the caldera collapsed leaving a horseshoe shaped island.

The ride out to the island was over more ocean swells that I've ever been in.  The vibration of an MRI gives me motion sickness but I'm fine with boats. Weird.

We stopped in another cove farther up the coast of Isabela for some more snorkeling.

No activities were planned for the afternoon so I borrowed a mountain bike and rode around the island on my own. 

Penguin and Sea Lion hanging out together:

Off the Santa Cruz in the morning.

Did I mention the water?

I expected the water in the ocean to be so clear you could see to the bottom.  I was not disappointed.

Check out this shark picture:

I expected the water to be undrinkable and that I would be brushing my teeth with bottled water.

I did not realize that fresh water is scarce here in Galapagos.  I always assumed that it rained a lot.  Tortoises can live months without drinking.  This is why the Galapagos is the land of reptiles, fish and birds.

Check out the complicated instructions in the shower:

Day 6: Isabela, Galapagos

Today, we started off the day with a hike up Sierra Negra Volcano.  The caldera is the second largest in the world.  However, the weather did not really cooperate so this is what we saw as we reached the summit:

Here is a video of what we should have seen:  Sierra Negra Caldera


After a hike around a section of the rim, we biked from the highlands all the way back into town.

Lunch: wild boar served under a mangrove tree.

After hiking and biking, we took a boat out to explore some of the smaller islands and did some more snorkeling.

Here are some pictures from the islands:

Young Iguanas

Pelican

Two Male Iguanas Fighting

picture missing - bad internet has screwed up my albums

Day 5: Isabela, Galapagos

After a short flight on the ridiculously small plane, we arrived on Isabela Island. This is the largest island and has 5 volcano zones and, therefore, 5 kinds of tortoises. 

This island is rarely visited by the boat tours and has a laid-back surfer feel to it.  For readers contemplating a visit to Galapagos, I cannot recommend a land based tour enough.  I think you see so much more than on the boat tour. 

We are staying at the Iguana Crossing Hotel.  So named because the Iguanas cross in front of the hotel on their way to feed in the ocean.

Some Iguanas crossing...

We went on a short hike to the Tortoise Breeding Center.  2 of the tortoise populations on the island are endangered so they've created a center where they protect the young tortoises until they are 5 yrs old and then release them back into the wild.  The program has been very successful.

Here are the 5 yr olds getting ready for release:

Here's an adult in the breeding area:

These guys live to be around 150 yrs old and keep growing and growing.

Here is a 1 month old:

The volcanoes here are still active with the last eruption in the 90's.  This guy was rescued from the lava by helicopter during the last eruption.  His shell is scarred and burned:

After hiking, we went on a bike ride out to the wall of tears.

Sunset on Isabela.  

Some pictures of San Cristobal, Galapagos

These sea lions are everywhere. 

This is Kicker Rock.  We snorkeled in that channel - with the sharks!

After the freezing snorkeling, we stopped on this beach to get some late afternoon sun.

The famous blue footed booby.

Darwin Bay where the Beagle first landed.

Checking things off on the bucket list on this trip...

Kayak with sea turtles... done
Swim with sharks... done
Fly across the ocean in a ridiculously small plane... regrettably done

Day 4: San Cristobal, Galapagos Islands

This was a total water day.  We left on the boat at 9 am.

We spent 2 hrs sea kayaking along the coast.  Coolest thing ever = kayaking with sea turtles.  We also saw marine iguanas, frigate birds fighting with blue footed boobies and pelicans dive bombing into the water.

After kayaking, we snorkeled along the rocks.  Besides the colorful fish whose names I don't remember, I saw a stingray and more sea turtles. Some baby sea lions followed us around.  I wore a wetsuit so the water was not too cold.

We then boated out to Kicker Rock.  Here we went snorkeling again and saw two kinds of sharks.  The only problem was that the water was so cold I almost couldn't breathe.  I should note that only the women of the tour group were strong enough to do this second snorkeling session.

Food update:  Dinner was paella. In Ecuador, they add olive oil and ketchup to the paella before they eat it. 

I'll add some pictures when I have a better internet connection. 

Day 3: San Cristobal, Galapagos

San Cristobal is one of the oldest islands of the Galapagos. 

I don't have a great internet connection here so I can't post pictures. 

We did an easy hike in the park today.  The forests here are dry forests since Galapagos gets very little rain.  The contrast from the lush cloud forests of the Andes is amazing. There are so many species of plants, birds and animals that exist only here in Galapagos. 

After hiking, we went snorkeling in Darwin Bay.  Darwin Bay is where the Beagle first landed.  There's a huge statue of Darwin there.  The water was a bit chilly. I'm going to rent a wet suit for today's water activities.  Also, I still can't figure out how to breath through my mouth so I'm going to forgo the snorkeling gear and just use my regular swimming goggles.  Next summer's project: learn how to snorkel without freaking out. 

Food update:  The people of Ecuador take their soup very seriously.  Each meal begins with a bowl and I've not met a bowl that I haven't liked.  We've had potato, tomato, squash, quinoa and chicken.  They also have amazing ceviche.  I had shrimp and octopus ceviche yesterday.  

Day 2: Hiking + Biking

Hiking at Cuicocha Lake, Cotacachi.

This is 12,000 ft and above the tree line.  We hiked around the lake formed by one of the many active volcanoes in the Andes Mountains.

The lack of air made me dizzy the first time that we had to go up a hill.  It took me about an hour to get acclimated. I still have trouble sleeping in the high altitude.  My heart and head just pounds when I first get into bed.

The flowers along the trail are amazing.  We spend so much time trying to grow these at home and they just grow wild here.

After hiking, we biked down the hill back into town and stopped for lunch.

Goat stew (when in Rome....)

After lunch, we shopped a bit at the Otavalo markets and then headed back down to Quito.

Here I am at the Equator

Day 1: Ecuador Highlands

Biked along old railroad bed.  Very easy terrain but I was gasping for air due to the high altitude.  The country side is beautiful.

Stopped for lunch at a farmhouse.  Traditional Ecuadorian meal.  And... fire water.  I have to bring a bottle of this home.

It started to rain so just the guide and I did the second ride of the day. The others went shopping.

Staying in a beautiful Hacienda in the highlands tonight.  Traditional Indian music (except for that Abba song) before dinner.

Very tired....

The adventure begins. I have arrived in Ecuador. 

So far so good.  Flights were fine.   Great hotel. 

The breakfast is similar to those that I had in Brazil.... runny eggs, wonderful yogurt drinks, fruits that I've never seen before and lots of breads and cheeses.  They also have guacamole, rice, veal sausages and empanadas.  

I'm off to get on a bike.  More later...